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La Paz to Agua Verde
Fresh water pump on the engine rebuilt, new VHF radio, fuel tanks full, and stocked with groceries, wine, and beer, we continue northward. We have 3-weeks to get above the 27th parallel (our insurance company has this 'thing' about us being in a hurricane zone). Our plan is to visit some of the islands and coves on the Baja mainland on our way up. On 6/11, we raise the anchor and head out.
Ensenda Grande on Isla Partida will be the first stop. As we entered the small bay, the rock formations were once again awe inspiring. Reddish rocks, cliffs, all against aqua water and clear blue skies. There was a white sand beach waiting for us at the head of the cove. It doesn't get much better than this. And only one other boat in the cove. This cove had the most abundant marine life we've seen to date, all in crystal clear water. As we entered the shoal areas, we could see jawfish burrowed and sitting on the bottom, colorful angelfish, stingrays and a multitude of other fish. We took a dinghy ride over to the cliffs that entered the water and explored the shallows for a bit. Then back to the beach for a swim. The temperature is in the 80's, the water is warm. Fantastic. After the three of us swam (Cindy, Steve, and Buddy), we waded for a bit. Then it happened. Steve evidentially stepped on a crab and upset the little guy. He (the crab) reached up with his claw and nipped Steve on the top of the foot... bunching up the skin and breaking through. A new kind of hurt. Bleeding and limping, we made it back to the dinghy and to the boat. Time for drugs. A few mega tylenols and a bit of wine did it. The next morning all was better, except that Steve's foot looked like an inflated latex glove. But no pain. So, 'let's get back on that horse'... we're heading back to the beach. After a few while, we got up the nerve to take off our sandals and wade again. Then Cindy stepped on a stingray. Didn't get stung, but evidentially the sensation of a wiggling flat fish under her foot didn't really appeal to her.
After a couple of days, off to Isla San Francisco... we want to anchor in the 'hook' of the island and bask in the sunshine. Ho Hum, another crappy day in paradise. When we arrive, there are only 5 boats in the cove, plus a yacht where the guests were being served lunch on the fantail, crew members (in uniform) discretely standing by on the bow and side decks, and other crew members setting up a cabana on the beach for the guests. Later in the afternoon the jetskis were launched and guests also were treated to waterskiing. Meantime, we're aboard 'Victoria Rose' eating our lunch of ham and cheese rolled up in tortillas. That evening we watch the 'yacht' with it's underwater lights illuminated and guests being served cocktails on the stern by the uniformed bartender. Back on 'Victoria Rose' it's a perfect warm evening with a gentle breeze, and margaritas in the cockpit... with nice music. Ahhhhh, cruising.
The next morning, the yacht 'Utopia' arrives and we watch them launch their aquatic toys and their crew sets up umbrellas on the beach for their guests. We envision the two yachts having jetski races, dual (or triple) waterski boats, and staff hovering all over. We weigh anchor and head to Isla San Jose, where we can expect a bit more 'quiet' and solitude.
Even though the anchorage is more exposed at Isla San Jose, we wanted to visit the lagoon. Our cruising books describe it as a nice dinghy trip up an estuary amongst the mangroves, filled with birds. We went in our dinghy, and was the first time that we really wish we had kayaks.... listening to the birds and overall 'quiet' would have been better than the idle of our outboard motor. Another beautiful evening.
This morning we discussed the beauty of the Sea of Cortez compared to the Pacific Northwest. While the warm aqua water, white sand beaches, rock formations, and the fact that we haven't seen rain in 3 months is appealing.... there's still a lot to be said about home, and walking through rain forests. Still, were glad we visited here, and are looking forward to the journey up the Sea.
Up early, and after the usual 'Buddy ashore trip', we raise the anchor and head across the channel to Punta Evaristo; about a 90 minute 'cruise'. Evaristo is a small village of about 200 people. Not much here.... pangas on the beach and a small school. The folks are nice, but for us, it's a bit hot and dusty. And not the same amount of beach for walks. So, the plan is to be up early and try to make Agua Verde in one day.
Entrance to Ensenada Grande; more aqua waters, white sand beach, and a beautiful backdrop
The rock wall formations are quite picturesque
Small cave where the cliff meets the water
A turtle swam up to visit- the first we've seen
More of the rock formations with lava draped over
Cindy taking Buddy ashore for his morning 'romp', while Buddy watches for 'critters' in the water ahead
Sometimes after a really busy day of running and swimming, you just want to snuggle up to mom and fall asleep
Isla San Francisco, with a yacht's cabana set up for evening cocktails. The beaches are beginning to look quite similar
'Victoria Rose' with her new found friends. In case you're wondering, we're the sailboat in the foreground
'Utopia' has some features that we'd like to consider on our next cruising yacht... such as the side doors that open to launch the tenders, and retaining the aft garage for the jetskis and other aquatic toys. You can see 'SV Rocky an Brew' making his getaway from a once quiet and secluded anchorage. We'll follow in a few minutes.
We leave the luxury yachts and head to Isla San Jose, another white sand beach. This island has a lagoon through the mangroves, full of birds. A great side trip with the dinghy. We wish we had kayaks for this venture. Ho hum, another day in paradise...
The end of another fantastic day. Gently rocking at anchor, about 80 degrees outside, gentle breeze, drinking marguritas on the bow, and watching a beautiful sunset. It doesn't get any better than this.