Mazatlan and San Blas
January 2010
We were looking forward to sailing back to the mainland side of Mexico. While we really enjoyed Guaymas and the Baja side, the talk of visiting the tropical side of Mexico is becoming more appealing. Reports of temperatures in the 80's. That's the water temperature. So we planned to leave on this 225 mile (planned for 48-hour) trip the morning of December 30. We'll celebrate New Years eve somewhere in the middle of the Sea of Cortez (a toast with lemonade... we don't use any alcohol underway). It took forever to sail out of La Paz. The winds and seas just weren't cooperating. So now we're about 4-hours behind our planned progress. When we tune into the SSB for weather info, we find the Sea is supposed to be a bit 'lumpy'. We decide to pull into Los Muertos to anchor until we get this figured out. We arrived around 1:30 a.m. under a beautiful moolight sky, and dropped anchor. The next morning, after checking more weather sources, we decide pull anchor and head out again. Still a 2-day trip. This was the worse trip we've ever done... so far. The seas were really lumpy. The boat did 45 degree rolls for 16-hours. The winds piped up and we were sailing under the staysail alone. We were anxious to get to the other side and get out of this. It wasn't dangerous... just uncomfortable.
Mazatlan came into view around 6 in the morning. A wonderful sight. The winds had died down, so we motored in the last few hours. Originally we wanted to anchor in the old Mazatlan harbor, but reports of poor holding and our desire to sight-see a bit, drove our decision to visit the marina.
As we approached our assigned slip, at least 6 other cruisers were at the slip waiting to catch our lines and greet us. Among them were Leon and Joannie from SV Prism, folks we had met while in Alameda. The cruising world is indeed.... small.
Mazatlan, as far a cities go, is our favorite so far. A lot of history, character, and warm weather (the water temp is over 80). We catch the bus downtown to sightsee... a wonderful Sunday afternoon. We walked on the beach, visited the cathedral, and just enjoyed the sights.
A few days later, we venture back downtown on a mission to buy parts for the boat. Armed with a map and addesses, we're off. First to the bearing store, then to an autoparts store, then to the Yamaha outboard repair place. In between we purchase antibiotics to replace the expired stuff in our drug kit (these 'prescription' drugs are OTC in Mexico). In all, we buy 5 boxes of drugs. About $13. Total. Had fun buying parts; using our 'Spanish for Cruisers' book. As street signs are almost non-existant, we asked for directions often. In between visiting the Central Market and walking to the grocery store... we covered about 12 miles on foot that day. After buying groceries... it was a pulmonia taxi (golf cart on steroids... powered by a VW engine) back to the marina.
Then off to anchor for a while before heading to San Blas. Our impression of Mazatlan?? Visit... it's quite nice.
Our plans were to sail overnight to Isla Isabela, an island that is a bird sanctuary. We arrived (lots of birds), but we weren't able to get the anchor to set securely. As we had sailed all night, we did drop the anchor and took in the sun and swam (the water is now 82 degrees). We figured that we wouldn't sleep well with the anchor situation and the rocks all around (we set an anchor alarm that should wake us if we drift), we decided to head to San Blas... several hours away. Once again, we arrive at 1:30 in the morning. We're really appreciating our radar for these 'night landings'. The next morning, we tuned into the San Blas 'cruisers net'. Boats in the estuary anchorage, plus Norm the net controller and local boat assister, gave us specific and much appreciated instructions on entering the estuary through the sandbars. They also gave great info on protecting ourselves from the bugs, as well as other local information.
Anyway, so far San Blas has been our favorite destination. It's tropical, no condos or time-shares, no Wal-Mart or other chain stores, very scenic,... and just plain nice.
We chose to anchor in the estuary. In anticipation of being overrun by mosquitos, gnats, flies, and no-seeums.. . we armored up for full warfare. We doubled the screens on all our ports and put external screens on the dorade vents. Then sprayed all the screens with bug repellant. Then doused ourselves in bug repellant. And lit citronella candles both down below and in the cockpit. All in all, we may have gone a bit overboard, as the bugs weren't really that bad. Just keep screens in place and use insect repellant. As I write this, I (Steve) haven't been bit much. Cindy has. So, my solution is to keep Cindy close to me. She attracts the bugs... I'm OK.
While in San Blas, we've visited the old church (The Bells of San Blas) and fort, spent evenings in the town square, and generaly just enjoyed the ambience of this town.
The approach to Mazatlan... a welcome sight after a boisterous sail
Old cobblestone streets
Who woulda guessed that we weren't out for an afternoon sail
This Christmas tree is made of clear pop bottles filled with colored water and lighted from within
The Fisherman's Monument on the malecon
A streetscape near downtown Mazatlan
Many of the towns & cities we've visited have specatular cathedrals, as does Mazatlan
'Neptune' outside of the Mazatlan aquarium
The old and new churches in San Blas. A quote fom Longellow's poem is on a plaque on the old church
A panga beach in Mazatlan
Cindy has been impressed with the pelicans. Here a fisherman holds a fish in the air for a 'photo op'
A Sunday stroll along the beach. Of course we need to test the waters
On the side streets are several old abandoned buildings... all with character
The inside of the Central Market. The place is HUGE. Cindy is more interested in looking at clothing than at the pigs heads and chicken feet over in the meat section. Women.
The main road into San Blas
A restored counting house
The cruising community is quite close. Here we have cocktails aboard SV Prism (from Olympia), folks we met in Alameda
Cindy's sunset picture as we prepare to anchor outside of Mazatlan. We never tire of the fantastic sunsets that abound here
Another nice building
The lighthouse outside the Mazatlan harbor. We'll anchor around the corner at 'Stone Island'
Approaching Isla Isabela, said to resemble a turtle when viewed from the north
The foilage had definately change from that in the Sonoran desert. This is a large park near the aquarium
Aah, household chores aboard. Cindy's in our 'car', off to do laundry
Time for a morning swim and to clean some growth off the waterline. The boat's, not mine.
Los Monas ('the mannequins') off Isla Isabela
The approach into San Blas. It can be a tricky entrance with sandbars across the mouth of the estuary. Locals and cruisers in the estuary give us very specific instructions.... much appreciated
A blurry sunset taken from our dinghy as we motor into town
The staff at the library were quite helpful and gave us their WiFi code. We gave a donation.
A streetscape of San Blas
We decided to hike up to the old, old church and fort. This is the road up the hill
Bananas growing along the roadside. Nope, we're definately not in the NW anymore
Approaching the old church. Simply a beautiful January afternoon
The interior of the old church. We're impressed with the good condition, no grafitti and fairly open for access.
Marguaritas in the cockpit at sunset. Should we give this up and return to work? Nah.
San Blas from the fort. If you look carefully, you can see 'Victoria Rose' at anchor in the estuary
The old, old church. The original where the 'Bells of San Blas' once rang
Cindy can sense the presence of a gift shop from miles away
Approaching the old fort, just up the hill from the church
Navy patrol boat getting fuel in San Blas
Ahh, the 'laundry lady' returns.....
While in San Blas, we were invited to participate in a charitable event hosted at the local hospital. It was wonderfully worthwhile. This link will take you to our photo page with more info
A 'must' for any visitor to San Blas is an early morning jungle trip up the estuary. Absoutely wonderful. Yes, the croc is real. Don't recommend swimming in the estuary. Keep the dogs aboard. Here's the link to more pics of this fantastic trip.
As we head south, we're joined by SV CaST Away, another Tayana 37 from the Pacific Northwest, for a portion of the trip. We've enjoyed the comany of Charlie and Sharon in many ports.
SV Victoria Rose
SV Victoria Rose
Tayana 37 # 384
